Note: These are general instructions that apply to most modern lever handles. If your handle is part of a mortise lock, heavy commercial lockset, or an electronic/smart lock, read the manufacturer manual (or contact the maker) before modifying anything.
Small Allen/hex key set (common sizes: 2 mm, 3/32")
Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers
Thin wire, paper clip, or pin for spring-pin release
Flashlight (to see hidden fasteners)
Clean cloth (to protect finish while prying)
Optional: needle-nose pliers, thread locker (Loctite Blue), WD-40
Remove the lever handles from both sides.
Remove the rosette/cover if present and take out the spindle and latch if needed.
Rotate or flip the spindle and latch so the latch bolt projects the correct way.
Reinstall spindle and latch, then reinstall lever(s) in reversed orientation.
Test and tighten set screws; replace cover.
Set-screw type: small Allen screw visible under lever base.
Spring-pin type: small pin hole on lever shaft where a pin holds lever in place.
Concealed-screw / rosette type: decorative cover hides the screws.
Also identify door handing: stand on the side the door swings toward; if hinge is left it’s left-hand, etc. Reversing a lever typically swaps it between left-hand and right-hand configuration.
If set-screw: loosen the hex screw (don’t fully remove it) and pull the lever straight off the spindle.
If spring-pin: insert a paper clip/pin into the small hole, press the spring pin in while pulling lever off.
If concealed rosette: gently pry the rosette cover off (wrap screwdriver with cloth to avoid scratching), then remove the mounting screws and lift off the lever assembly.
Remove both inside and outside levers so you have access to the spindle and latch.
Spindle: once both levers are off, the square spindle (the bar that connects the two handles) will usually slide out. Remove it.
Latch/Faceplate: many latch bolts are reversible — open the door edgefaceplate screws, remove latch assembly and rotate the latch body 180° (or use the latch’s built-in reversing method—see below). Some latches have a small tab or screw to switch latch bolt direction without full removal.
Why rotate the latch? The latch bevel must face the door jamb so the slanted edge leads when the door closes. If you only flip the lever but not the latch, the door may not latch correctly.
Spindle: some spindles are symmetrical and don’t need flipping. Others are offset/keyed — rotate the spindle 180° or flip the shorter/longer end to the opposite side as needed.
Latch bolt: either rotate the latch body 180°, or flip the latch bolt (many have a reversible bolt that can be slid out and reinserted the other way).
Reinstall the latch into the door edge and temporarily tighten the faceplate screws.
Slide the spindle back through the latch housing with its orientation changed.
Put the outside lever onto the spindle (the lever orientation will now be reversed).
Push on the inside lever and secure with set screw, or engage the spring pin until it clicks, or re-attach the rosette screws and snap cover back on.
Tighten screws firmly but not so tight as to bind the lever movement. If using set screws, a drop of thread locker will help prevent future loosening in high-traffic areas.
Open and close the door several times, operate the lever to ensure smooth action and full latch retraction.
Ensure the latch bolt enters the strike plate cleanly — if not, you may need to slightly reposition or chisel the strike plate.
Check for wobble. If the lever is loose, retighten set screws, rosette screws, or verify spindle seating.
Concealed-fastener handles: rosettes sometimes snap on with small tabs — work your way around gently to avoid bending tabs.
Privacy locks (bed/bath): follow the same steps; there may be an emergency release on the exterior that must be re-aligned.
Smart/electronic locks: do not disassemble the electronics. Instead check the manufacturer’s reversal instructions or contact support.
Commercial mortise locks: reversing may require removing the lock body and changing internal components — consider a professional for mortise cases.
If latch won’t reverse easily: some latches require removing a retaining clip or unscrewing the faceplate; consult the latch body for a reversible tab or slot.
Protect finishes: wrap screwdrivers in cloth or use plastic pry tools.
Door doesn’t latch: latch bevel facing wrong way or strike plate misaligned. Rotate latch correctly and/or adjust strike.
Handle binds / is stiff: lever or spindle misaligned — remove and re-seat spindle, ensure screws not over-tightened.
Handle still loose after tightening: check for stripped set screw or worn spindle; replace small parts if needed.
Exterior lever won’t remove: likely spring-pin or rosette-covered; locate the release hole or pry off rosette to access screws.
The handle is part of a mortise/European/entrance lockset.
You’re uncomfortable disassembling a lock with electronic components.
The spindle or internal parts are damaged or stripped.
A licensed locksmith or the handle manufacturer (if under warranty) can help.
Identify handle type (set-screw / spring-pin / concealed)
Gather tools (Allen key, screwdrivers, pin)
Remove both levers and note orientation (take photos)
Remove/rotate spindle and reverse latch bolt as necessary
Reinstall levers in reversed orientation and tighten screws
Test door operation, adjust strike if needed
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